I wanted to visit Krakow when it was cold. But not too cold as I don't do the cold (any of you who have travelled with me before will know this). This morning it was grey and about 10 degrees so not too bad. I decided, in my wisdom, to walk to Schindler's House. In hindsight, I should've taken the tram but you live and learn. It as a bit of a walk.
I found the Ghetto's Heroes Square. The Ghetto Heroes Square is one of the most significant places in the history of Krakow and Jewish communities. Formerly known as Zgody Square in Krakow’s district of Podgorze – an area that was transformed into Krakow Ghetto under Nazi rule during WWII. It was as this very square that Nazi occupants gathered Jewish people before deporting them to nearby Auschwitz and Plaszow concentration camps.
With its redesign in 2005 a living monument of 70 larger-than-life chairs was set up on the square to commemorate all the people of Krakow Ghetto whose fate was sealed here. The chairs are a reference to the description of the events by Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who ran a pharmacy in Krakow Ghetto.
Obviuosly, I was early for my tour so found a beautiful coffee shop. It reminded me of being back in London. People were just working on their Macs, taking phone calls, drinking coffee. Life goes on. I had some lovely Rooibos tea and sat and reflected. The factory was just around the corner and I joined my tour. The building is very 1930s and this is where they filmed some of the factory scenes in the film Schindler's List.
The tour takes you through a history tour of how Poland was invaded by the Nazis and the consequences this had. All very emotive but so important to learn. I had noticed the floor tiles and the guide explained that they were put down by the museum as they wanted people to walk all over the Nazis. The tiles were of the swastika.
We all know our history but when you are there it is really difficult to comprehend it all. I found the museum to be really interesting. You see the names of the people he saved. Plus there are some photos of them. Just normal people. Just like you and me. The guide explained that when the ghetto was built the Nazi built walls all around it that were the shape of Jewish gravestones. Jews thought that they were already dead because of this. Horrific.
The museum was really worth the trip (and the long walk) and I can't say I enjoyed it as enjoy is not the right word. However, it was very well constructed, informative and a good reminder of the evil man can do to man.
This quote really moved me. 'Life makes sense as long as you save people'. If only we could all live a life like this.
Just a few of some of the name of those people he saved.
Schindler's Desk
Photos of some of the people he saved
Words just fail me. I found this really upsetting
Replica of his desk but it sets the scene
Some of the pots made by those at the factory
I was going to walk to see the last bit of the ghetto wall that is still standing but felt a bit overwhelmed with it all to be honest. So I got a tram into the square. You buy a ticket for how long your journey is going to be 20, 30 or 60 minutes. During this time you can hop on and off the tram. You can buy them quite easily at most tram stops or on the tram and like Berlin, you validate your ticket by popping it in the machine. No one checked any ticket whilst I was there. This did make me smile as the years I lived in the London the times I saw bus inspectors get on the bus and find loads of people not with a ticket. So much so, that the Met were always with them as people would kick off. Yet in Poland, none of this. It was all down to trust and doing the right thing. Says a great deal about our country I think!
I had a walk around the Market Square, taking in all the beautiful buildings. Found a little cafe that served the best mint tea. I had to dig deep as there were cakes, breads, pasties everywhere. The Polish do like their carbs. I was booked on a tour to go and see the Jewish Quarter. This was a free, just turn up tour. I did one of these in Berlin and they are good as you pay what you think at the end. By now it was chucking down with rain and when the tour guide said we would end up, end up at the Ghetto Chairs, my heart sunk as I thought I cannot walk all that way again. So I ducked out. By now I had been out all day and I needed a hot meal. I went to the nice supermarket and purchased a stew pack of carrots, leaks, celeriac and parsnips. Still having no idea what I was paying for all this but again it was only a few pounds. Amazing. Why is everything so expensive here!
Cooked myself a lovely little dinner and put another one up for tomorrow as I knew I would not want to be cooking after tomorrow's trip. I watched some Polish TV which did make me smile as there was Gogglebox and it I didn't have a clue what they were saying but could imagine as it was just like the UK's version. Also, they had a lot of English speaking programmes with the English turned down but only one person doing the dialogue in Polish. Really strange. I just kicked back for the night as I knew tomorrow was going to be a long day and a bit of a challenge.
As always, with my love.
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