Day Four - Krakow - Bristol

The last day of my little trip to Poland. This morning I took myself off to the castle which was a ten minute walk from my apartment. I gave myself the luxury of a later start, backing my case before I left. I heard from my hosts as the apartment was going to be empty and I could stay until my flight.  This is always so handy and I was very grateful for the extra time.

The castle was very busy and I spent some time just wandering around taking some photos:

Krakow is so pretty. It really is.  I said to myself that if I ever fall in love again (I know) I will come back again when it is cold and snowy as it would be a romantic place to visit.

After my trip around the castle I took myself off to the Jewish Quarter. Before WW11 Krakow had the 4th largest Jewish population in Poland. Approximately, 70000 Jews made up 25% of Krakow's population.  Today about 140 Jews remain in Krakow, mainly elderly people who get together for prayer and discussion at the Remuh synagogue on Szeroka street. Today's Kazimierz together with the ghetto in Venice are counted as the best-preserved Jewish areas in Europe. Within the area are 6 synagogues and 2 cemeteries, of which the Remuh synagogue is one of the 3 oldest in Europe. There are also many other ritual buildings and institutions.

Memorial in the Jewish Quarter fir the Jews murdered in the camps

I liked the Jewish Quarter. I found it fascinating. I went into a synagogue that told you all about the Jewish faith and also how things used to be in that part of town before WW11. I went for a cup of tea in a lovely Israeli restaurant. Obviously, I didn't have anything to eat but the food did look good. The weather was getting colder and stupid me had gone out without her gloves or hat. So treated myself to some lovely knitted gloves for the pricey sum of £4.00 (all lined too). 

There was still excitement in the Old Town as the Independence Day celebrations continued and the place was really busy. It had a good feel about it.

Krakow Old Town and Square

Time was running out so I made my way back to the apartment to charge my phone and have a warm drink before setting off to the airport. I am always an early bird and would rather get there early than have to rush around being late and getting into a panic.

I had trouble finding the bus stop as they had closed one bus stop but I figured it out with a bit of help from some helpful locals. People are so friendly here and most of them speak some English and are happy to help.  Caught the bus and was at the airport in no time.  Spent time watching the world go by and looking at the flights coming up on the screen. I forgot I was going back to Bristol and kept looking at flights to Gatwick!

Case handed in. Security cleared and before I knew it I was on the plane and flying home.  Usual awful organisation at Boarder Control.  It makes me mad! Finally, cleared that and got my case and it was a smooth trip on the bus to collect my car.  It was absolutely chucking it down with rain and the road were dark. I mean dark. Country lanes with no lights and flooding.  It was a challenging drive home but finally got back home at 12.30am. 

It was a really good little trip to Poland. I liked it there and I would go back. I probably wont as there are 1001 other places I want to visit. But I would recommend it as a weekend break. You wont be disappointed.

Thank you for sharing this journey with me again.  Here's to next time whenever and wherever that may be.

As always, with my love.

Day Three - Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum

It is very difficult to find the right words to describe today.  This is a place that I have always wanted to visit, yet had reservations about it too.  I did not want to go to Poland.  Their right wing Government is vile against the LGBTQIA+ community and their rights for women are virtually non-existent.  Yet, the only place where Auschwitz is, is in Poland.
The weather was perfect for me.  I did not want to make this visit in the summer, even though I don't like the cold.  I wanted to feel cold. I wanted to feel wet. I wanted to feel miserable.  The Polish weather did not let me down.
Before getting on the coach I went to a little bakery to get a cuppa and met Sophia who was 7 years old who speaks Ukrainian, Polish, Russian and English!  I will just let that sink in.  She was amazing and so confident.  I learned to say yes in Polish (tak) and that is all.  We really are lazy as a nation when it comes to learning other languages.

I made my way to where the coach was setting off and the guide gave us some indication on how the day would pan out. He reminded people that it is not the place to take selfies! I mean, a if. Yet I did see a family, with a selfie-stick take a photograph of them all smiling - why?  Food and drink is not allowed inside of the camp (unless for medical reasons) and there is no smoking or vaping allowed.
The coach arrived to a huge, what looked like a newly built entrance with a massive car park and it was so busy.  It felt odd to me as it was a bit like turning up to a theme park. I appreciate they have to supply parking and toilets but it did leave me with mix feelings.  There is strict security screening as you enter the museum. My ticket had my name on it and I had to bring some ID (my passport in my case) with my name on it. My ticket was checked against my ID. There was airport screening.  All pockets emptied, boots off as I past throw a scanner which, yes, you guessed, I set off.  No idea why but this always happens.

Once you have cleared security you go down stairs to meet your guide and to get your headphone set. Once we were all set up our guide lead us out through what was like a football tunnel which finally come up in daylight.  We walked a little bit more and then were greeted with the entrance. The one that we are all familiar with:

Please note that I did not take any photos on this tour. It did not seem right to walk round taking snaps. I wanted to stay in the moment.  All photos shown in today's blog are stock photos.

As we passed under the arch way a guy in the tour (he was Italian) took his baseball cap off and crossed himself. I found this very moving. We were taken into the huts that had some exhibitions.  In some of them you are not allowed to take photos: the ones that show piles and piles of hair, human hair that was sent from he camps to factory to make pillows. The place where there was a huge display of glasses that were taken from people.  1000s of them.  A display of false legs, arms, feet you name it.  Just all piled up.  The one that got to me was the display of shoes and boots.  Most of the shoes were dark coloured, muddy and tatty.  Yet there was one, just one, bright red shoe.  I love red shoes. I was really moved by that one shoe and could not stop looking at it thinking about the woman who it belonged too.  There was a huge display of cases.  All luggage was taken off people at the station. They were told to chalk their name on the case and where they were from. 1000s of pieces of luggage, each showing a name and home town. So sad.

Stock photo

We were taken to Block 11 where they used to torture people and put them on trial.  As if this was not enough. There were tiny cells where people were put to starve to death. Keeping in mind that each person was given around 300 calories of food to eat a day. Working in extreme cold. Working 12-14 hours a day on 300 calories.  It did not take long for people to be starved to death.  Outside of this block was the Death Wall where people were taken to be shot. There is always a beautiful flower display there.  I had decided before I took this trip that I wanted to say or do something significant.  The Jewish faith say prayer called The Mourner's Kaddish.  I found this prayer which is said in Hebrew but I managed to find an English translation.  I stood very quietly by this wall and read out quietly the prayer:

May the great Name of God be exalted and sanctified, throughout the world, which he has created according to his will. May his Kingship be established in your lifetime and in your days, and in the lifetime of the entire household of Israel, swiftly and in the near future; and say, Amen. May his great name be blessed, forever and ever. Blessed, praised,  glorified, exalted, extolled, honored, elevated and luaded be the Name of the holy one, Blessed is he – above and beyond any blessings and hymns, Praises and consolations which are uttered in the world; and say Amen. May there be abundant peace from Heaven, and life, upon us and upon all Israel; and say, Amen. 

He who makes peace in his high holy places, may he bring peace upon us, and upon all Israel; and say Amen.

The Death Wall

We then walked to the area where roll call took place. Sometimes people were standing out in the cold, with no shoes, rags for hours and hours. Anyone who collapsed was beaten. In front of this area was a joist like an RSJ and this is where they would hang people for all to see. My heart was so heavy. It is hard to take it all in.  I felt numb. My hands were buzzing.  There was only one gas chamber at this camp (the main ones were at Birkenau). It was destroyed when the Russians invaded but it had been rebuilt to give you an idea of what it was like.  As you pass through there you come out into the light and that is the end of the tour.

It was so informative and a privilege to be there, it really was.  The coach was quiet when we all got back on it and then we were taken about 3km down the road to Birkenau or Auschwitz II.  Again, we parked at a brand new car park and then walked to the camp, about a five minute walk.  This is what I was created with:

It was the train track that really got to me. It was so long, so straight and lead right into the camp and then just stopped.  The end of the line. The point of no return. This is where selection took place.  Those who were either fit men, under 50 were kept to work; women, children, people over 50 were sent straight to the gas chambers. Being told they were taken a shower. They would have believed this as they had been travelling in cattle tracks for days and days without food, water or toilets.  All of the gas chambers have been destroyed but we walked right to the end of the camp to the ruins Crematorium 2. I just stood and looked and then again, read the Mourner's Kaddish. 

I had been told by people that the atmosphere is really odd in the camps and I agree. But I did hear a bird singing at Auschwitz and saw a cat, of all things, in the grounds at Birkenau which lifted my heart.  Birkenau, when compared to Auschwitz is massive.  Most of the huts were destroyed when the Russians arrived but you can see as far as you can see rubble where each hut had once stood.

As this stock photo shows, barbed wire is still there and as I was there it got dark and colder as it was the end of the day.  I could go on about it there but what can I say. You have to go there and see and more importantly, feel it for yourself. It is unbelievable how cruel this period in history is, but for me it needs to be remembered.

We went back to the coach and travelled back to Krakow about 1 hour 20 minutes away.  The coach was quiet.
I chose to go on this trip on Saturday as 11 November is Polish Independence Day. The day the country was free from the Russians. I wanted to go to the camps on this day as I knew there would be a lighthearted atmosphere in town and that is what I needed to be reminded of - that life goes on.
I spent some time in the Old Town, by the Square soaking up the music and watching the locals celebrate their important day.  There are some beautiful stalls in the old Cloth Hall on the Square and I managed to pick up a few lovely gifts for Christmas. By then I was cold, wet and tired so made my way back to my little apartment which was lovely and warm and snug. I needed a shower to wash away the day and just sat and reminded myself that no matter how hard done by we can all feel at times, my life is perfect. Just perfect. I am so lucky to live the life I have been given.

As always, with my love. As with love all things are possible.

Day Two - Krakow

 I wanted to visit Krakow when it was cold.  But not too cold as I don't do the cold (any of you who have travelled with me before will know this).  This morning it was grey and about 10 degrees so not too bad.  I decided, in my wisdom, to walk to Schindler's House.  In hindsight, I should've taken the tram but you live and learn.  It as a bit of a walk.

I found the Ghetto's Heroes Square.  The Ghetto Heroes Square is one of the most significant places in the history of Krakow and Jewish communities. Formerly known as Zgody Square in Krakow’s district of Podgorze – an area that was transformed into Krakow Ghetto under Nazi rule during WWII. It was as this very square that Nazi occupants gathered Jewish people before deporting them to nearby Auschwitz and Plaszow concentration camps.

With its redesign in 2005 a living monument of 70 larger-than-life chairs was set up on the square to commemorate all the people of Krakow Ghetto whose fate was sealed here. The chairs are a reference to the description of the events by Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who ran a pharmacy in Krakow Ghetto.

Obviuosly, I was early for my tour so found a beautiful coffee shop.  It reminded me of being back in London. People were just working on their Macs, taking phone calls, drinking coffee.  Life goes on. I had some lovely Rooibos tea and sat and reflected.  The factory was just around the corner and I joined my tour.  The building is very 1930s and this is where they filmed some of the factory scenes in the film Schindler's List.

The tour takes you through a history tour of how Poland was invaded by the Nazis and the consequences this had. All very emotive but so important to learn.  I had noticed the floor tiles and the guide explained that they were put down by the museum as they wanted people to walk all over the Nazis.  The tiles were of the swastika.

We all know our history but when you are there it is really difficult to comprehend it all. I found the museum to be really interesting. You see the names of the people he saved. Plus there are some photos of them. Just normal people.  Just like you and me. The guide explained that when the ghetto was built the Nazi built walls all around it that were the shape of Jewish gravestones.  Jews thought that they were already dead because of this.  Horrific.

The museum was really worth the trip (and the long walk)  and I can't say I enjoyed it as enjoy is not the right word.  However, it was very well constructed, informative and a good reminder of the evil man can do to man.

This quote really moved me. 'Life makes sense as long as you save people'. If only we could all live a life like this.

Just a few of some of the name of those people he saved.

Schindler's Desk

Photos of some of the people he saved

Words just fail me.  I found this really upsetting

Replica of his desk but it sets the scene

Some of the pots made by those at the factory

I was going to walk to see the last bit of the ghetto wall that is still standing but felt a bit overwhelmed with it all to be honest.  So I got a tram into the square.  You buy a ticket for how long your journey is going to be 20, 30 or 60 minutes.  During this time you can hop on and off the tram.  You can buy them quite easily at most tram stops or on the tram and like Berlin, you validate your ticket by popping it in the machine.  No one checked any ticket whilst I was there.  This did make me smile as the years I lived in the London the times I saw bus inspectors get on the bus and find loads of people not with a ticket.  So much so, that the Met were always with them as people would kick off.  Yet in Poland, none of this.  It was all down to trust and doing the right thing.  Says a great deal about our country I think!

I had a walk around the Market Square, taking in all the beautiful buildings. Found a little cafe that served the best mint tea.  I had to dig deep as there were cakes, breads, pasties everywhere.  The Polish do like their carbs.  I was booked on a tour to go and see the Jewish Quarter. This was a free, just turn up tour.  I did one of these in Berlin and they are good as you pay what you think at the end.  By now it was chucking down with rain and when the tour guide said we would end up, end up at the Ghetto Chairs, my heart sunk as I thought I cannot walk all that way again.  So I ducked out.  By now I had been out all day and I needed a hot meal.  I went to the nice supermarket and purchased a stew pack of carrots, leaks, celeriac and parsnips.  Still having no idea what I was paying for all this but again it was only a few pounds.  Amazing.  Why is everything so expensive here!

Cooked myself a lovely little dinner and put another one up for tomorrow as I knew I would not want to be cooking after tomorrow's trip. I watched some Polish TV which did make me smile as there was Gogglebox and it I didn't have a clue what they were saying but could imagine as it was just like the UK's version.  Also, they had a lot of English speaking programmes with the English turned down but only one person doing the dialogue in Polish.  Really strange.  I just kicked back for the night as I knew tomorrow was going to be a long day and a bit of a challenge.

As always, with my love.

Day One - Bristol to Krakow

 Flying from a new airport can be just as exciting as taking a trip.  I have never flown from Bristol Airport before and actually trying to get there is a journey in itself.  The roads from my home to the airport are basically country lanes, which is fine in the daytime, but I was not looking forward to the return journey.  That aside, with the witchcraft of Apple Maps I arrived at the airport.  I had paid to park in the Silver Zone and I had been reassured by people that it is all very clearly marked up and it was.  In fact, it was seamless.  

I parked my car, gave them my keys and made my way to the airport.  I self checked in, dumped my case and made my way to Security. It always amazes me, no matter how much people are being told no liquids, coats and belts off, that people just rock up and then looked so surprised when requested to remove their shoes, belts and where are your small bottles of liquids! 

Not me, I am taking coat off as I am walking to Security.  All jewellery is already in the bags with the liquids, phone is ready to go in the crate.  I did smile.  There was a security person there who was obviously having a bad day and was not feeling the love of having to continuously repeat herself saying empty pockets, all electrical in the crate.  She was so officious and yet people (and I have to say in my age bracket - the real one not 29-35) still did not do this.  The security woman's patience was rapidly wearing very thing.  People can be very stupid at times.

Walked through to the duty free and of course I had to have something (some Chanel shower wash to match my perfume).  I had pre-ordered a gift for someone at Christmas and that was all ready for me.  I then decided to go for a cuppa and sat there and watched the world go by.  Bristol is a very white airport.  In fact, I don't think I have ever been in an airport that had no diversity whatsoever!  I did see five people of colour; three of which were employees.  The South West is a very white world - even the airport.

No issues with the flight, got my seat and I am still amazed that I have so much room now and also there is such a lot of seat belt leftover when I have put it on.  It really is a wonderful feeling.  The flight was noisy.  There were a crowd of people at the front of the plane (again older to know better) who were so loud.  I fell asleep.  I have done this a couple of times now when I have flown.  Off the plane, and through passport control which I still get very angry about having to go through other passport lane and not European.  Then straight for a wee and then my suitcase was there waiting for me.  Again seamless.  

Thanks to the app City Mapper I knew I had to get the 300 bus that would take me straight to town.  Whilst waiting for the bus a woman come up to me who was Polish but lived in Newport, Wales.  She was going home for the weekend and did not know what bus to catch. We started chatting and the rest is history - I made a new friend :) 

Whilst we were waiting for the bus a group of blokes come up and asked in broken English if this was where they could catch a bus to town.  I heard others talk and it was obvious they were French.  I said I could speak a bit of French so helped them, using my limited French, whilst standing at a bus stop in Poland with a Polish woman.  This is why I love to travel.  It levels us all and you get to meet so many wonderful people.

The bus journey was busy and Agnes (the Polish woman) and I had to get off at the same stop.  I found where she needed to get her next bus to the train station and we swapped details on FaceBook.  She did say to me that I was a visitor in her country and she should be helping me and not the other way around, but I told it was fine and I would find my apartment.  And so I did, it was quite easy actually.  I now put one Air Bud in my ear whilst my phone is in my pocket then I can listen to directions.

My little apartment was small but perfect.  It had all that I needed.  I had taken my dinner with me, so had that then went out to explore and get my food.  Needless to say, I got lost. I could not find the supermarket that my host had said was nearby. I found a small shop which turned out to have branches all over Krakow, purchased what I needed then went for a wander and ended up in the square in the Old Town. It was beautiful.  I found another shop that looked like Selfridges Food Hall and I thought this is going to be expensive.  Went in and got some more bits and spent the grand sum of £3.00.  Poland is cheap.  Very cheap!

By now I was tired.  It had been a long day so I made my way back to my little apartment where I had a lovely warm shower and unpacked my suitcase.

The main door to my little apartment. This has a key lock then once you go in there are so many flats surrounding a courtyard.  All very secure and safe.

As always, with my love.

Krakow - Finally

Ever since I can remember, I have wanted to visit Auschwitz. I have always had an interest in the Holocaust.  I was planning to go there in 2022 the just a few days before I was going to book a flight, Russia invaded Ukraine.  So I went to Sicily instead. However, I have always had that desire to go.  Back in the summer I was asked to go into work during the holidays. They offered to pay me, of course, but I said could I take the two days in term time. So here I am.  Ready to embark on a sneaky little mid-term trip to Poland.

Flights are booked, this time flying from Bristol, which will be an experience in itself.  Car booked in the car park.  Again, something I have not had to consider for many, many years. Airbnb booked. A very small studio apartment, just outside of the Old Town of Krakow.  I am going up to London next week to get my holiday money.  I had no idea where I could get that down here so it was a good excuse to go back to London.  Not that I need an excuse.  I have a little book from the Oxfam Book Shop in Wells all about Krakow and have a kind of plan in my head.  So I guess we are all ready to go again.  I feel different about travel these days, since Covid.  I don't know what it is or why I feel this way, it is strange.  I don't think it helped last year when I went to Sicily and caught Covid (even though I didn't know I had it!).  But I need to shrug off these feelings and go out and explore more of the world whilst I am young and healthy enough to do it.

So come join me on this mini adventure and I am sure I will make some fond memories again.

As always, with my love.